In Conversation: Ecoshi's Founder on All Things eco-printed

In Conversation: Ecoshi's Founder on All Things eco-printed

Ecoshi's Ayushi Gupta shares her very personal journey as an eco-printing entrepreneur. 

What exactly is eco-printing?

Eco-printing is a sustainable dyeing technique that uses natural elements like leaves, flowers, and bark to create unique patterns and colours on fabric. The process involves layering these materials onto textiles, steaming or boiling them, and letting the pigments imprint directly onto the surface. Each piece is one-of-a-kind, capturing the organic beauty of the plants used. 

What inspired you to start on this journey? 

I found myself increasingly drawn to the idea of creating art and products that celebrated nature in its truest form while leaving a minimal ecological footprint. Through eco-printing, I aim to create not only products but also awareness - showcasing that sustainability and beauty can coexist harmoniously. It’s my way of giving back to the planet while inspiring others to embrace mindful choices.  

Can you describe the process from start to finish?

Eco-printing involves several steps-

  1. Fabric Preparation: The fabric, usually natural fibers like cotton, silk, or wool, is pre-treated (mordanted) using natural substances like alum or iron to help the plants’ pigments bond with the material.

  2. Plant Selection: Leaves, flowers, and other plant materials are carefully chosen for their dyeing properties, textures, and shapes.

  3. Arranging the Plants: The plant materials are arranged directly onto the fabric in desired patterns, either randomly or with specific designs in mind.

  4. Bundling and Steaming: The fabric is tightly rolled, bundled, and secured, then steamed or boiled. This heat process extracts the natural pigments from the plants and transfers them onto the fabric.

  5. Drying and Finishing: Once cooled, the fabric is unwrapped to reveal the unique patterns. It is then washed and dried to fix the colors and ensure durability.

How do you choose your colours and shapes in terms of the natural materials?

Choosing colors and shapes for my work is an intuitive and collaborative process with nature. Each season brings its own palette, as the availability of leaves, flowers, and other plant materials changes throughout the year. The shapes and textures of the materials also play a crucial role. I let the natural world guide me - delicate eucalyptus leaves, vibrant marigolds, or richly pigmented onion skins inspire both the colours and the patterns I create.

What's your favourite thing about working with eco-printing?

My favourite thing is  the element of surprise it brings to every creation. Each piece is like unwrapping a gift from the earth - the way a leaf’s veins imprint, or a flower’s pigment transfers onto fabric, is always unique and unpredictable. It teaches me patience, creativity, and respect for the environment. 

What are the challenges you face?

One major challenge is the seasonal availability of raw materials - plants, flowers, and leaves vary in colour and quality depending on the time of year, weather, and even the soil they grow in. This makes planning collections that are consistent in look and feel quite challenging. 

Sustainability is another consideration. Staying true to eco-friendly practices while scaling production requires thoughtful sourcing, ethical collaborations, and minimizing waste. 

How do you build sustainability into every aspect?

Sustainability guides every decision from sourcing to production. It begins with choosing natural and biodegradable materials - fabrics like cotton and silk, and plant-based dyes - so ensuring minimal environmental impact. I prioritise locally sourced leaves, flowers, and other organic materials, reducing transportation emissions and supporting nearby communities.

I reuse plant materials whenever possible and compost them afterward. Water usage is kept to a minimum through careful planning and eco-friendly mordanting techniques. Even the smallest details, like using natural or recyclable packaging, reflect my commitment to sustainability.

What is your relationship with the artisans? In what areas do you involve them?

While I personally take charge of the fabric preparation, dyeing, and eco-printing processes, artisans play a vital role in other essential aspects of the production, such as finishing the edges of scarves, or crafting Ecoshi diaries.

This partnership allows me to focus on the creative and technical aspects while empowering artisans through meaningful, fairly paid work. 

Narrate a typical day in your creative life as an eco-printing entrepreneur?

A typical day in my life starts early, with a cup of coffee. The morning often begins with preparing the fabrics - soaking them in a natural mordant solution to ensure the plant pigments will bond effectively. I spend hours in my studio, experimenting with different leaves, flowers, and plants. While the printing process takes time, I am constantly working on new designs, sourcing materials, and planning for future collections. Throughout the day, it’s a balance between nurturing the artistic side and managing the logistics of running a business. 

What are your plans for Ecoshi in 2025?

In 2025, my vision for Ecoshi is to continue growing as a brand that not only celebrates the beauty of nature through eco-printing but also expands its reach and impact in the sustainable fashion and lifestyle space. I plan to introduce new product lines, incorporating eco-printed home decor, accessories, and perhaps even sustainable apparel, all created with the same commitment to natural dyes and ethical craftsmanship.